Rye cup baker Revka El Baz experiments here with exciting spices in a recipe that yields two wheat sourdough breads.
Durum flour, wheat flour (stone ground), fine wheat flour, water, sourdough, salt, honey, lemon zest, cream cheese, fresh rosemary
Two rising baskets and an iron pot.
Dough time 3 hours
Rising time: 10-36 hours
Baking time: 45 min
- 300 g durum
- 300 g wheat flour ( stone-ground, the light-sifted )
- 400 g fine wheat flour ( Kornby Mølle No.1 )
- approx. 850 g of water (50 of which are retained initially) - possibly only 750 g, if you are not used to handling a wet dough, but rye flour absorbs quite a lot of liquid!
- 150-200 g refreshed sourdough (depending on how hot it is and how long you want to let the dough rise. I'm not religious with my sourdough: it lives in the fridge and just comes out when I need it: I want to make bread up in the evening, I discard everything but a bottom slat and freshen up with cold water and light flour before I go to work in the morning. If I need to use it faster, it gets lukewarm water and coarse flour)
- 24 g of salt
- approx. 2 tablespoons liquid honey
- Grated rind from 1 lemon
- 3 mature tablespoons of cream cheese (not light!)
- approx. 2-3 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh rosemary
The method is a classic Tartine: the sourdough is dissolved in the water and the flour is added and just stirred together, after which it rests for approx. 1/2 hour. Then add the other ingredients, incl. the retained water: the lemon zest and rosemary are very small and light, so they do not prevent the dough from rising. Other types of ingredients I fold in later.
Then comes folding the dough over itself 3-4 times at intervals of approx. 25-30 min. - I'm not religious here either. It gets a few sets of folds when it just fits in with the evening's other chores, and when I think the dough is springy and nicely arched, I let it rest. In general, I leave the first rising quite short, especially here in the heat: a total of approx. 2-2.5 hours after the first rest period (auto light).
The dough is carefully turned out onto the table and divided in half, which I fold a few times and round. I let the pre-shaped loaves rest for 15-25 minutes, again depending on how hot it is. Then I turn them over, fold them again (a bit like an old fashioned envelope), carefully turn them over again and round them well and place them upside down in a rising basket dusted with rice flour. And then they rise in the fridge overnight.
I bake directly from the fridge, because then they hold their shapes better: Put in a cast iron pan and heat to approx. 250 degrees, put a loaf of bread in the pan (or in the lid, if you have a pan with a flat lid! if not, you can turn the bread out onto a piece of baking paper and lift it into the pan by holding a couple of snips: then you don't knock the air out by letting it dump down from a height of 20-30 cm...). The bread is scratched and given 20-25 min. with a lid, the temperature is lowered to 220 degrees, the lid off and approx. 25 minutes without a lid - or until it has the golden-dark color you prefer.
A little about the lemon-rosemary cream cheese addition: The cream cheese gives a very creamy and juicy texture, the rosemary can be turned up or down - some people think it's a strong taste, I can hardly get enough! And the lemon, well, it makes it all sing.
Revka El Baz
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